Canon R6V Slow Motion Guide: S&F Mode Explained
If you’ve recently picked up the Canon R6V, there’s a good chance you’ve noticed the S&F setting on the mode dial and wondered what it actually does.
At first, it sounds simple. S&F stands for Slow and Fast Motion, so you’d expect it to be the mode you use for slow-motion video and timelapses.
And it is.
But there’s an important catch: the Canon R6V can already record high frame rates in its standard video mode. That leaves a lot of filmmakers asking the same question:
Should I shoot slow motion in S&F mode or regular video mode?
The answer depends less on image quality and more on your workflow. S&F mode can save you time by creating slow-motion and fast-motion clips directly in camera, but it also removes audio, limits RAW recording, changes your shutter-speed options, and can make speed ramping more complicated.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through exactly how I set up S&F mode on the Canon R6V, when I use it, and when I avoid it altogether.
What Is S&F Mode on the Canon R6V?
S&F stands for Slow and Fast Motion.
The mode allows the Canon R6V to create slow-motion footage and timelapses directly in camera. When you finish recording, the clip is already prepared to play at the selected speed.
You don’t have to bring it into your editing software and manually change its playback speed before you can see the result.
That’s the biggest appeal of S&F mode.
You can record a shot, immediately review it in slow motion, and decide whether the movement, timing, focus, and composition worked the way you intended.
That’s especially helpful when I’m filming:
Cinematic B-roll
Product shots
People walking
Water or fabric movement
Action sequences
Traffic
Clouds and sunsets
Long setups compressed into a timelapse
The camera does the speed conversion for you, which makes S&F incredibly convenient when you already know how the finished shot should play.
S&F Mode vs. Standard Video Mode
The most important difference between S&F mode and standard video recording is what happens after you stop recording.
Let’s say I record a clip at 120 frames per second.
Recording 120 FPS in standard video mode
If I record that clip in standard video mode and press playback, the footage plays in real time.
The camera has captured 120 frames every second, but it hasn’t automatically converted the clip into slow motion. I’ll need to bring the footage into my editing software and slow it down there.
Recording 120 FPS in S&F mode
If I record the same 120 FPS clip in S&F mode, the camera automatically slows it down to my selected playback frame rate.
For example, if I record at 120 FPS and choose a playback rate of 24 FPS, the finished clip plays five times slower than real life.
That means I can review the actual slow-motion effect on set.
This might sound like a small difference, but it can be extremely useful. Instead of imagining how a shot will look after editing, I can see the final motion immediately and reshoot it if something doesn’t feel right.
However, that convenience comes with a few important trade-offs.
The Four Main Limitations of S&F Mode
Before you start recording everything in S&F mode, there are four limitations you need to understand.
1. S&F Mode Doesn’t Record Audio
The first limitation is simple but easy to forget:
S&F mode doesn’t record audio.
That’s perfectly fine when I’m shooting cinematic B-roll that will eventually sit underneath music or sound design.
But if I need any of the following, I’ll stay in standard video mode:
Dialogue
Ambient sound
Natural sound effects
Reference audio
Audio for syncing another recording
Imagine capturing the perfect slow-motion moment, only to realize later that you also needed the sound from the scene.
That’s why I decide before recording whether the clip is purely visual or whether audio might still be useful.
2. S&F Can Make Speed Ramping More Complicated
The second limitation affects post-production.
In standard video mode, high-frame-rate footage initially plays in real time. I can then decide where I want the shot to slow down, speed up, or return to normal.
That’s ideal for speed ramps.
A speed ramp might begin at normal speed, slow down for one important moment, and then return to real time.
When a clip is recorded in S&F mode, it’s already been slowed down. That doesn’t make speed ramping impossible, but it can make the workflow more annoying.
You may need to speed the clip back up before creating the slow-down effect you originally wanted.
My general rule is:
If the entire clip will be slow motion, S&F mode is convenient.
If I want to create a speed ramp, I usually prefer standard video mode.
3. S&F Mode Doesn’t Offer RAW Recording
The third limitation is RAW recording.
The Canon R6V can record 7K RAW at up to 60 frames per second in standard video mode, but RAW recording isn’t available in S&F mode.
So when RAW flexibility is important, I use standard recording.
S&F mode is built for convenience. It creates a finished slow-motion or fast-motion video file, but it doesn’t give you the same RAW recording option.
4. Shutter Speed Is Limited by the Recording Frame Rate
The fourth limitation is shutter-speed control.
When you’re recording in S&F mode, the camera won’t allow you to choose a shutter speed that’s slower than your recording frame rate.
This matters because shutter speed controls how much motion blur appears in each frame.
A slower shutter speed creates more blur and can give movement a streaky, dreamlike appearance. A faster shutter freezes movement more sharply and can make motion feel choppier.
S&F mode still gives you some creative control, but you won’t have the same freedom to drag the shutter far below your frame rate.
I’ll show you how I work within that limitation later in this guide.
Does S&F Mode Reduce Image Quality?
One of the biggest questions I had was whether S&F mode produced worse image quality than standard video mode.
In my testing, it didn’t.
I compared the same settings in both modes, including:
4K Fine at 60 FPS
4K 120 FPS
Matching exposure settings
Matching recording formats
The sharpness looked the same, and the overall video quality looked the same.
There isn’t an image-quality advantage to choosing S&F mode over standard video mode, or vice versa, when the recording settings match.
The real difference is workflow.
Choose your mode based on whether you need:
Audio
RAW recording
Immediate slow-motion playback
Easier speed ramping
More shutter-speed flexibility
Don’t choose one because you expect it to look noticeably sharper than the other.
How to Set Up S&F Mode on the Canon R6V
Now that we understand the differences, let’s set up the camera.
Step 1: Switch the Camera to Video Mode
Make sure the Canon R6V is in video mode.
Then turn the mode dial to S&F and power on the camera.
Step 2: Choose Manual Exposure
Open the menu and go to the first page of the red shooting menu.
Set the shooting mode to Manual Exposure.
I prefer manual exposure because it gives me direct control over:
Shutter speed
Aperture
ISO
Those three settings become especially important when switching between slow-motion and timelapse recording.
Step 3: Choose Your Movie Recording Format
Go to Movie Recording Format.
The two main choices I discuss are:
XF-HEVC S
XF-AVC S
The practical difference is file size and editing performance.
XF-HEVC S
HEVC creates smaller files because the video is more heavily compressed.
The trade-off is that the format can be more demanding for your computer to edit.
I use HEVC because my Apple silicon MacBook can handle the format smoothly. That lets me keep the smaller file sizes without creating major editing problems.
XF-AVC S
AVC creates larger files, but those files may be easier for some computers to edit.
This can be worth considering when you’re using:
An older computer
A Windows computer that struggles with HEVC
A system that has difficulty playing highly compressed footage smoothly
Whichever option you choose, make sure you select 4:2:2 10-bit.
For my setup, I choose XF-HEVC S 4:2:2 10-bit.
Step 4: Open Movie Recording Size
Next, go to Movie Recording Size.
This menu controls:
Resolution
Aspect ratio
Recording frame rate
Playback frame rate
Compression type
Understanding the difference between the recording frame rate and playback frame rate is the key to using S&F mode properly.
Recording Frame Rate vs. Playback Frame Rate
The recording frame rate tells the camera how many frames to capture every second.
The playback frame rate tells the camera how quickly to play those captured frames.
When the recording frame rate is higher than the playback rate, you get slow motion.
When the recording frame rate is lower than the playback rate, you get fast motion.
Slow-motion example
Recording: 120 FPS
Playback: 24 FPS
Result: 5× slow motion
The camera captures five times as many frames as it plays every second.
Timelapse example
Recording: 1 FPS
Playback: 24 FPS
Result: 24× fast motion
The camera captures only one frame per second but plays 24 frames every second.
The Canon R6V shows your final speed in the upper-right corner of the recording-size menu, so you don’t need to calculate everything manually.
That display is one of the easiest ways to confirm whether you’re creating slow motion or a timelapse.
Choosing Your Playback Frame Rate
For most filmmakers looking for a cinematic result, I choose 24 frames per second as the playback rate.
You can also choose 30 or 60 FPS when you’re working in a broadcast or sports environment.
Just remember that the playback frame rate affects the final speed.
A 120 FPS recording played back at 24 FPS gives you five-times slow motion. Changing the playback rate changes that relationship.
For the examples in this guide, I’ll use 24 FPS.
Choosing the Right Resolution
Your available recording frame rates depend on the resolution you choose.
4K Fine
4K Fine gives you the sharpest image because the camera oversamples the footage from its 7K sensor into 4K.
However, the highest available frame rate in 4K Fine is 60 FPS.
Use 4K Fine when:
Image detail is your main priority
You only need moderate slow motion
60 FPS is enough for the shot
4K
The standard 4K option gives you access to frame rates up to 120 FPS.
Use this when:
You want stronger slow motion
You still want a 4K image
You’re willing to sacrifice the oversampled detail of 4K Fine
Full HD
Full HD gives you access to frame rates up to 180 FPS.
Use Full HD when:
You want the strongest slow-motion effect
Resolution is less important
You’re willing to trade image detail for a higher recording frame rate
The decision comes down to a simple trade-off:
Do you want more detail, or do you want slower motion?
How to Record a Timelapse in S&F Mode
To create a timelapse, choose a recording frame rate that’s lower than your playback frame rate.
With a 24 FPS playback rate:
1 FPS gives you 24× speed
2 FPS gives you 12× speed
3 FPS gives you 8× speed
When I use 3 FPS
I find that 3 FPS works well when there’s faster movement in the scene, such as:
People walking
Human activity
Traffic
Event setup
Production activity
It speeds up time without making the motion feel excessively fast.
When I use 1 FPS
One frame per second works better for slower changes, including:
Clouds
Skies
Sunsets
Long construction or setup processes
Subjects that take a long time to change
The slower the recording frame rate, the faster the final timelapse will play.
How to Set Shutter Speed for Natural Motion Blur
Once your recording frame rate is selected, you need to set the shutter speed.
For natural-looking motion blur, I use the 180-degree shutter rule.
The rule says to set your shutter speed to approximately one over two times your recording frame rate.
The important word is recording.
Don’t base your shutter speed on the playback frame rate.
Shutter speed for a 3 FPS timelapse
If I’m recording at 3 FPS:
Double the frame rate: 6
Starting shutter speed: 1/6
That gives me a natural amount of motion blur.
Shutter speed for 120 FPS slow motion
If I’m recording at 120 FPS:
Double the frame rate: 240
Closest available shutter speed: 1/250
That gives me a cinematic starting point for the motion.
Using Shutter Speed Creatively
The 180-degree rule is a starting point, not a requirement.
You can change the shutter speed to alter the feeling of the movement.
Faster shutter speed
A faster shutter creates:
Sharper individual frames
Less motion blur
Choppier or more stuttering movement
This can work when you want the action to feel more intense or frozen.
Slower shutter speed
A slower shutter creates:
More motion blur
Streakier movement
A softer, dreamlike feeling
S&F mode limits how low you can take the shutter speed, so the effect won’t always be extreme. But you can still use the available range creatively.
How I Expose Timelapses
For outdoor timelapses, I usually want a deeper depth of field.
That means I may choose apertures such as:
f/8
f/11
f/16
If I’m recording at 3 FPS and following the 180-degree rule, my shutter speed will be around 1/6.
That slow shutter allows a lot of light into the camera. Even at f/16, the shot may still be overexposed outdoors.
That’s when I use an ND filter.
An ND filter allows me to reduce the amount of light entering the camera without changing the settings that create the look I want.
Instead of increasing my shutter speed and losing the natural motion blur, I can keep:
My selected shutter speed
My preferred aperture
My desired ISO
Then I use the ND filter to control the brightness.
How I Expose Slow-Motion Footage
Slow motion usually creates the opposite problem.
At 120 FPS, my shutter speed will be around 1/250. That faster shutter allows less light into the camera.
Shooting outdoors
In bright outdoor conditions, I may still need a variable ND filter, especially when I want to keep the aperture wide open for a shallow depth of field.
For example:
120 FPS
1/250 shutter
f/2.8
Bright daylight
Without an ND filter, that combination may be overexposed.
Shooting indoors
Indoors, I often don’t need an ND filter.
Instead, the challenge is getting enough light.
I may need to:
Open the aperture
Add more light to the scene
Increase the ISO
I try to stay near a base ISO when possible, but getting a usable exposure is more important than forcing the camera to remain at one particular number.
Should You Use S&F Mode or Standard Video Mode?
Here’s the simplest way I decide.
I use S&F mode when:
The entire clip will be slow motion
I don’t need audio
I don’t need RAW
I want to review the finished effect immediately
I want less work in post-production
I’m creating an in-camera timelapse
I use standard video mode when:
I need dialogue or ambient sound
I want to record RAW
I’m planning a speed ramp
I want the clip to begin at normal speed
I want more flexibility in post-production
I need different shutter-speed control
Neither option is automatically better.
S&F mode gives you convenience. Standard video mode gives you flexibility.
Once you understand that difference, choosing the correct mode becomes much easier.
Quick Canon R6V S&F Settings
Cinematic 4K slow motion
Mode: S&F
Exposure: Manual
Format: HEVC or AVC, 4:2:2 10-bit
Resolution: 4K
Recording frame rate: 120 FPS
Playback frame rate: 24 FPS
Shutter speed: 1/250
Aperture: Around f/2.8, depending on the desired depth of field
ND filter: Often needed outdoors
Detailed 4K slow motion
Resolution: 4K Fine
Recording frame rate: 60 FPS
Playback frame rate: 24 FPS
Result: Approximately 2.5× slow motion
Benefit: Sharper, oversampled 4K image
Timelapse with people or traffic
Recording frame rate: 3 FPS
Playback frame rate: 24 FPS
Result: 8× speed
Shutter speed: Around 1/6
Aperture: Around f/8 to f/16 outdoors
ND filter: Often needed in bright conditions
Timelapse with clouds or sunsets
Recording frame rate: 1 FPS
Playback frame rate: 24 FPS
Result: 24× speed
Adjust shutter speed, aperture, ISO, and ND based on the scene
Final Thoughts
S&F mode is one of those Canon R6V features that becomes much more useful once you understand its purpose.
It isn’t automatically better than recording high frame rates in standard video mode, and it doesn’t create better image quality.
What it gives you is speed and convenience.
You can create finished slow-motion clips and timelapses directly in camera, review them on set, and reduce the amount of work you need to do later.
Just remember the limitations:
No audio
No RAW recording
Less convenient speed ramping
Restricted shutter-speed control
Once you plan around those trade-offs, S&F mode becomes a powerful tool for cinematic B-roll, dramatic slow motion, and fast-motion sequences on the Canon R6V.
