Canon R5 Mark II Cinematic Video Guide | Advanced Tutorial
You've just unboxed your Canon R5 Mark II, and a world of cinematic possibility stretches before you. You envision breathtaking shots, rich colors, and smooth motion. But then, you dive into the camera's menu, and terms like "C-log 2," "HEVC," "RAW," and "4:2:2 10-bit" hit you like a wall. It's overwhelming, confusing, and can feel like a roadblock to bringing your vision to life.
As a commercial filmmaker, I understand this struggle firsthand. It's frustrating to have a powerful tool like the R5 Mark II and not know how to harness its full cinematic potential. That's why I'm here to translate the technical jargon and provide a clear, step-by-step guide to help you achieve the best video quality this camera can produce.
In this detailed guide, based on my personal experience, we'll demystify those daunting settings, starting with a crucial, often-overlooked first step. I'll even reveal a secret setting for RF lenses that gives you buttery-smooth exposure control. Plus, stick around to the end, and I'll show you the easiest way to expose your C-log 2 footage, transforming those flat, gray images into vibrant, cinematic masterpieces.
Let's dive in and unlock the cinematic power of your Canon R5 Mark II!
The Foundation: Memory Cards – Your Unsung Heroes
Before we even touch a single camera setting, we need to talk about memory cards. This is the most overlooked step, yet without the right cards, your R5 Mark II will literally prevent you from accessing its highest quality video modes.
The Canon R5 Mark II features two card slots: a CFexpress Type B slot and a standard UHS-II SD card slot. For your primary recordings, especially if you're aiming for the best quality, prioritize a high-quality CFexpress Type B card.
For 8K RAW: Canon recommends a card rated at VPG 400.
For Most 4K Shooting: Any reputable CFexpress card with a sustained write speed of 240MB/s will suffice. I personally use a 1TB Lexar Pro card, which handles almost everything perfectly.
For the SD card slot, you don't need the most expensive V90 card. A more affordable V60 card is all you need, even for shooting up to 4K 60fps or 4K 120fps. This choice will actually save you money and speed up your editing workflow later on.
Card Setup: Telling Your Camera How to Work
Now, let's configure your camera to use these cards effectively, as this dictates which recording options are available.
Navigate to the Wrench Menu: Go to the wrench menu and select "Record function".
Choose Your Recording Mode:
Standard : This is the default setting where the camera records to your designated primary card (usually the CFexpress Type B). To unlock every single frame rate and resolution the R5 Mark II offers, this is the mode you need.
Proxy Recording : This is my personal favorite and the reason you don't need an expensive SD card. In this mode, the camera records the main high-quality video to your CFexpress card while simultaneously creating a small, low-quality proxy file on the SD card. These small proxy files are incredibly easy to work with in editing, making your computer run smoothly, especially with RAW footage. The only caveat: you cannot record 8K or 4K 120fps video in this mode.
For the purpose of this guide, we'll set the camera to "Standard" to explore all available options.
Main Record Format: Demystifying RAW, AVC, and HEVC
Let's jump into the red camera menu and head to the first page to choose our main record format. This list can look like gibberish, but I'll simplify it for you.
RAW : This captures the pure data directly from your sensor, offering the absolute best quality.
Trade-offs: Enormous file sizes, increased likelihood of camera overheating, and requires color grading in post-production to make your footage pop.
AVC and HEVC : These are your best friends for most projects.
AVC : Creates larger files but is generally easier for most computers to edit.
HEVC : Creates smaller files, saving space, but demands more processing power from your computer during editing. My MacBook Pro with the M1 chip handles HEVC nicely, and the smaller file size (about a third smaller) allows me to save space and capture more content.
Color Information (4:2:2 10-bit vs. 4:2:0 8-bit) : This is a simple rule for the best possible quality: always choose the format with 4:2:2 and 10-bit.
10-bit Color: Gives you over a billion colors, compared to only 16 million in 8-bit. This helps prevent ugly color banding in skies and gradients.
4:2:2 : Simply means the camera is capturing more color information, which is always better.
My Recommendation: For the best balance of quality and ease of editing, choose AVC 4:2:2 at 10-bit. This is what we'll use for the rest of this tutorial.
Resolution and Frame Rate: Crafting Your Cinematic Look
Next, head to "Movie record size" to set your resolution and frame rate.
"FINE" Mode: You'll notice "FINE" next to some resolutions. In "FINE" mode, the camera utilizes its full 8K resolution sensor and scales it down to 4K, 2K, or 1080p. This significantly sharpens and details your video, so I highly recommend using it when possible.
Frame Rates:
23.98 or 24 frames per second (fps) : For that classic cinematic motion.
30fps : Great for social media.
60fps : Perfect for slow motion, action, and sports.
Quick Note on Slow Motion: To shoot in 4K 120fps and 4K 60fps, you must be in the "un-fine" mode. This is a unique trade-off with the R5 Mark II. For the best overall image quality, I highly recommend
4K-U fine at 24 frames per second.
Compression Options (INTRA vs. LGOP):
INTRA : Higher quality files and easier to edit, but approximately three times larger than LGOP.
LGOP : Three times smaller files, but requires more processing power to edit, which can strain your computer.
Secret Setting: Smooth Exposure for RF Lenses
Before we get to our image settings, here's a quick, often-overlooked setting. On page three of the red menu, you'll find "Av 1/8th stop increment".
Enable this setting if you're using a native RF lens.
This allows you to adjust your aperture in tiny 1/8th stop increments instead of the standard, clunky 1/3rd stops.
The benefit? You can make incredibly smooth and subtle exposure adjustments even while recording, resulting in a far more professional look.
The Heart of Your Image: Canon Log 2 (C-log 2)
This is the most important setting for your image. On page four, we're going to enable "Custom picture" and then select Canon Log 2 (C-log 2).
Why C-log 2? This picture profile provides the absolute most dynamic range, meaning you capture the maximum detail in both shadows and highlights that the R5 Mark II offers.
Don't Panic! When you select C-log 2, your image on the screen will appear flat, gray, and washed out. This is completely normal and means you've successfully captured all that precious color and light information. You'll bring those colors and contrast back to life in post-production.
Exposing Your C-log 2 Footage: Zebras to the Rescue
Filming with a flat, gray screen can be challenging, but the R5 Mark II has built-in exposure tools to help. While waveforms are great, I find false color and zebras to be faster and more intuitive.
First, to make your screen easier to judge, go to page 8 of the red menu and turn on "View Assist". This applies a temporary color grade to your screen, but it will not be burned into your final footage.
Unfortunately, "View Assist" disables false color, so we'll focus on using zebras for exposure.
Enable Zebras: Back on page eight of the red menu, go to "Zebra Settings" and turn them on.
Zebra 1 (Skin Tones): Set "Zebra 1 level" to 55% ± 5%. This is your guide for exposing light skin tones.
Zebra 2 (Highlights): Set "Zebra 2" to 85%. This will show you which parts of your image are completely blown out and overexposed.
How to Use Zebras When Filming:
For People: Select Zebra 1. Adjust your exposure until you start to see subtle zebra stripes appear lightly on the brightest parts of their skin where the light is shining. Once you see those patterns, you've achieved perfect skin tone exposure.
For B-roll/Landscapes: Select Zebra 2. Your goal is to ensure zebra stripes only appear on elements that are supposed to be blown out, like bright light sources, light bulbs, or the sun itself. If you see zebras on anything else, adjust your exposure until they disappear.
By using these two zebra settings, you take all the guesswork out of achieving proper exposure.
Adjusting Exposure: Shutter, Aperture, and ISO
Now, let's refresh how to adjust your exposure.
Shutter Speed : For natural motion blur, your shutter speed should typically be locked at "1 over your frame rate times two".
For 24fps, set your shutter speed to 1/50th.
For 60fps, set your shutter speed to 1/120th.
Aperture : Set your aperture based on the depth of field you desire.
Deep Depth of Field (everything in focus): Use f/8, f/11, f/16.
Shallow Depth of Field (subject separation, blurry background/bokeh): Aim for f/2.8 and below.
ISO : For C-log 2, your base ISO is 800, which provides the most dynamic range.
What if your image is too bright or too dark with these settings locked?
Overly Exposed Image (Too Bright) : Use an ND filter. A variable ND filter is ideal as it allows you to adjust the strength of light reduction. ND filters are typically used in bright outdoor conditions.
Too Dark Image : You have a couple of options.
Introduce More Light.
Increase ISO : The Canon R5 Mark II has a "fake" second base ISO at 4000. Try setting your ISO to 4000 first. If it's still too dark, continue to raise the ISO to get the proper exposure. Remember, it's better to capture the moment, even if it's a bit noisy, than to miss it trying to achieve a perfectly clean image.
Widen Your Aperture : If your lens allows, open up your aperture to a larger f-stop (e.g., f/1.4) to let in more light and increase exposure. If you're already at your lens's widest aperture, then adjusting ISO is your next step.
With these settings and techniques, you are now ready to shoot incredible cinematic video on your Canon R5 Mark II!
Actionable Steps for Your Next Shoot:
Invest in the Right Cards: Ensure you have a high-quality CFexpress Type B card (VPG 400 for 8K RAW, or 240MB/s sustained write for 4K) and an affordable V60 SD card for proxy recording.
Set Your Record Function: Decide between "Standard" for all resolutions/frame rates or "Proxy Recording" for easier editing.
Choose Your Format: Select AVC 4:2:2 10-bit for the best balance of quality and ease of editing.
Prioritize "FINE" Mode: Whenever possible, use the "FINE" resolution setting for sharper, more detailed video.
Enable 1/8th Stop Aperture (RF Lenses): Turn on "Av 1/8th stop increment" for smoother exposure adjustments.
Switch to C-log 2: Embrace the flat, gray image on screen knowing you're capturing maximum dynamic range.
Master Zebras: Practice using Zebra 1 (55% ± 5%) for skin tones and Zebra 2 (85%) for highlights to nail your exposure every time.
Understand Your Exposure Tools: Remember the rules for shutter speed (1/[frame rate x 2]), aperture (for depth of field), and ISO (base 800, 4000 second base, then higher if needed), and know when to use an ND filter.
If you have any questions as you implement these settings, feel free to leave them in the comments below, and I'll do my best to answer them.
